The magnets do not
float in mid-air, they are held by their own magnetic force on an
iron plate, as the loudspeaker works as a dipole, emitting sound
pressure in both directions, the plate has to be perforated, thus
permitting the sound production and avoiding destructive interference.
The plate is cut into pieces, one big piece for
the bass baffle, in my case 93 cm. in height, 29 cm in the top part
and 34 cm. in the widest part, see diagramme. You also need a piece
for the back and sides of the tweeter hole, thus a long 93 x 5.5
cm piece, with long pieces to cover the sides of the tweeter, also
permitting the adherence of the tweeter magnets, 2 pieces of 93
by the width of the MDF plate
you buy per loudspeaker.
First of all, you can choose plates that range
from paper thin to very thick. I chose 3mm. width, this was as wide
as possible mostly with respect to my pocket ($$...) and wider than
the original project (1.25 mm), 50% air (amount of perforations).
A thicker plate makes the construction more robust, less propense
to vibrations, makes the loudspeaker all the more sturdy and would
theoretically help to acheive a better overall sound. The wider
the plate, the tougher it is to find a place they can cut it. I
had a terrible hassle finding a pneumatic guillotine that could
cut the plate, on top of it all, the plate weighs a lot, a car is
a must, or taxis if they are affordable in your country. They normally
sell the plates as one piece, 2 x 1 meter, at least in metric countries,
you can make four back pieces and the rest of the magnet supports
with one plate, so get together and buy the plates as a pair.
I would recommend from my own experience, to give
the plate an antioxidant treatment, paint or varnish, so your loudspeaker
has a nicer appearance and lasts longer. It is also good to get
the edges polished after they are cut by the guillotine, they can
be very sharp and dangerous to work with, if they are not dulled
a bit.
Material list
Construction recipe |